Have a question I am looking for front height or front presence speakers. My current mains are RP160M's for L and R RP250C for the center. I know Klipsch over inflates their numbers but overall no real complaints. My Yamaha RX-A2010 gives me the option of having either front or rear presence speakers. I would like to improve the overall sound w/o going nutty in price. I called Klipsch asked the same question and they suggested the RP-140SA. Not that I agree with everything that was mentioned but the idea behind it made sense. I even found on AVS this:http://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-speakers/2447010-ceiling-speakers-atmos-dts-x.html post# 8 in particular. It was suggested the Volt 6 or Volt 8. I am not expert but for what I am looking for these should be a huge improvement over the Klpisch version larger drvr better spec.s etc. Is my reasoning sound on this and if it is what would be the best size to get? I sit approx.12ft. from the TV. Last question what would be the best way to mount these. Thanks
I must have missed them, but I can't seem to find the schematics for the various crossovers. Not being an experienced XO designer, I am not sure which cap is which in the Volt 6 XOs (PCB3 version 1.4b). I have the 22uf cap in the "lo cap" position, the 4.0 uF cap in the "hi cap" position, and the 1.0 uF cap in the "lo parallel" position. Is this correct?
The Volt-6 would be more then enough to keep up with your Klipsch mains and it's smaller size and weight makes positioning and mounting easier. As for the mount I don't know exactly how your planning to position them but these should work well for the volts and allow aiming: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_...x1V2FTvirrmqwLvEjA6MM9mjpJUbYtK15oaAt628P8HAQ Also if a lower profile solution is needed without so much movement some of the small flat panel tv or monitor wall mounts can work.
In your opinion as far as placement goes from my understanding these need to above my mains and to the outside. In my situation I have no room to mount these to the outside of where the current Klipsch are located, as far as height I was going to mount them close to the ceiling ( Ceiling height is 8ft. ) angled toward the MLP. If you look at the images what I wrote should make more sense.
What's the difference between poly-fil and poly batting. I have a good quality Poly-fil and 2" denim, what should I use to stuff the ported Volt 8, thanks again
I'm just getting started with my troubleshooting, but maybe someone has messed this up the same way I have and can point me in the right direction. I seem to have fouled up at least two of my six Volt 10 LX crossovers with the extra cap for the Atmos/small cabinet variation. I haven't tested all of them, but at least some of them sound like there is no woofer output and within about three seconds of turning on the amp, the amp shuts itself off. What sort of mistake is likely to cause that? It would seem to me that somehow I have gotten the woofer section shorted back to the input, but that doesn't seem possible. I'm using the printed circuit boards. I'll come back and post pictures after I get them all sorted into "good" and "not yet good" piles. Fred
Turns out I had done a poor job soldering one of the components, and it was only very loosely making contact. I fixed it.
Finally made up my mind and decided to go with 3 Volt 6's 1 angled 2 std. Placed the order on Friday so hopefully they will be sent soon looking forward to putting these together.
Are pics of Xovers current and are instructions simple about pull trigger on either 3 Volt-10 or 3 Volt-6 and it's only part worry a me.
The last 3 pictures in the first post are of the current crossovers, first of those show a Volt-6LX which has a physically smaller capacitor for the LF section, the last two show the Volt-10 LX and Atmos version.
After reading through all of this I have a couple of questions. I am planning an 11.2 theater build (12'x19') with Fusion 15s as my LCR and I am planning for the surrounds. I noticed that the Volt 10lx speakers are great in the ceiling without a box and I have 16" high ceilings so I am planning on running those IB. Right now the theater room is just framed with no drywall or soundproofing, the framing is 3.5" so with the drywall (likely 1-1.5" thick, dual layer) and the baffle I should have around 5.25-5.75 inches for the side and rear speakers. I could make that a bit thicker with a slightly thicker baffle. That being said, should I try to fit in some V10s in the sides and rear? Trying to save some space since the room is a bit narrow and I am planning on having the side and rear surrounds at about 54" from the ground. What should I do as far as insulation for those if I do? Any other advice is hugely appreciated. Thanks guys.
I'd say if you can get them to fit you should go with the Volt-10's all around, they are the best suited of the volts for IB installation. You will want to have some kind of insulation right behind the drivers to damp the sound off the back of the cone that may bounce around the ceiling/wall cavity. Regular pink fiberglass is just fine if you have some of that or if the space is going to be filled with it anyway. One note is that you don't want to driver crammed tight into the insulation when installed so much that the insulation might press into the frame and touch the cone, it should just loosely touch the driver frame or have a little gap between the driver and insulation. As for the side and rear surround height you want those a little above head level when seated at least 6-12" above, you don't want the side or rear surround speaker to blast right into the person sitting next to it and have them block the sound from reaching the others in the row.
Thanks for the quick response Matt. So is it alright for the driver to be about 1/4" away from the solid surface behind it? If so will I need some kind of insulation in that 1/4" space or should I cut around it? 54" should be putting them over the 12" easy when seated. Thanks again for the help!
A 1/4" is fine, it's the small compression driver that will be protruding the most off the back. You might have to bend the input terminal a little on the compression driver so the wires clear but you can just cut the insulation around that compression driver, it should be fine behind the rest of the woofer magnet.
I'd like to build a ported 10LX but make it much shallower. Can I make it 7" deep, 14" wide, and 29" tall to keep the same internal volume as the ported flat pack? Any problems with making it that shallow and ported? How long are the ports?
I posted this on AVS thread, but figure I could post it here too in case people wanted to toss out ideas: -- I wanted to check in here to see what your opinions are. Based on the FAQ thread, @mtg90mentions several ways to configure the Volt 10 box. In my space, I think I'm going to shoot for having Volt 10s for all surrounds, as well as 4 atmos. Supposedly the off-axis response of the Volt 10s are pretty good, but I think I have the space, and hopefully the skill to create a box that would point the 4 ceiling speakers at the MLP. I threw together a design for an atmos box that faces the MLP. It's right at about 1cuft volume. I don't know very much about tuning and what not, but I was thinking what I would do is get all 4 surrounds to be the ported flat pack from @Erich H/diysg, which I believe has a volume of about 1.6-1.7cuft. In an effort to try to keep everything matched as best as I can should I: 1) Custom Atmos (pointed at mlp) + standard ported volts for surrounds: ---a) keep it sealed at 1.0cuft ---b) add 2 ports? 2) infinite baffle (obviously not pointed at mlp) + standard ported volts for surrounds ---a) I have sound proofing, so it seems like I should try to shoot for a backer box? if I do this should I ask for the atmos crossover from erich? ---b) not worry about baffle box (this seems unlikely) 3) Custom Atmos (pointed at mlp) + custom volts to try to match volume of atmos (seems less than desirable?) 4) any other ideas? The theater will seat 7, so the pointed atmos might lessen the experience for the back row, but I'd really want to have a good idea that the off axis performance will be sufficient to mount them flat. My ceiling heights are going to be slightly less than 8'. Thanks people!
Hopefully this is an easy question... Below is a working floor plan for our lower level remodel. Right side is kitchen/dining, left side is living room. Living room has tray ceiling (10 ft or so), entryway/kitchen/dining is lower by 2ft and is 8ft ceilings. There is a large bay window on the top 22' wall. The shapes in the living room represent my current furniture (recliners, love seat, tables and sectional) just to see what kind of space we are dealing with. TV will likely be mounted on far left wall. This is obviously for entertainment/big games and not an ideal theater space, however I still want it to handle movie duties until a dedicated room can be built. For movie/daily duty I would park the recliners or sectional to center of the room. What are your thoughts on running in-wall/in-ceiling IB Volt-10s everywhere in the living room? My wife and I recently demo'd a 7.2.4 Atmos and were blown away. Is there an issue with downfiring the Volt-10s? Finally, do you have any recommendations for good DIY ceiling speakers for the rest of the house? V-6s? Thanks!
First the Volt-6's might not be ideal as ceiling speakers for background music and such around the rest of the house as they need a subwoofer to augment the low end. This is usually not a problem in a home theater used as surrounds where subwoofers will be present but you might experience a lack of bass when they are used without one. The Volt-10's can be used in wall or in ceiling down firing no problem (even around the rest of the house if you wanted to use them for music). If you can I would suggest you use Volt-10's in wall for LCR as mounted in ceiling for the LCR would not be ideal unless you can aim them towards the seating. If you wanted to save some cash you could even go with Volt-6's for surrounds and the atmos speakers unless you want to keep all the speakers matching.
Hopefully this will finish the system I have 3 Volt 6LX's that are being used as my mains and they sound great no complaints but I want to put something better as my mains and use the V-6's as my rear surrounds. This leads to a couple of questions the first would there be any issue with mounting the V-10 horizontally if I go with the ported flat pack? The second question if I go with the V-10's as my mains can I use the sealed flatpacks and my reason for asking where I have to mount the center it needs to be angled and the flatpack shown is sealed ?
With coaxials it does not matter which way the cabinet it positioned, so yes you can definitely place them sideways if needed. There is also no issue using the sealed flat packs for mains, you just give up a bit of bass extension.
Hi guys. My order for my Volt 6 LX's with angled flat packs is on the way! I have to place them higher than I'd prefer. Is it possible to build them with the coax speaker at the bottom and port at the top of the angled flat pack?
I'm not totally sure there is enough depth there for the coaxial to be placed at the bottom of the enclosure. I have a feeling the compression driver will hit the back of the enclosure. If you want to test this just dry fit an enclosure together maybe using some masking tape to hold the panels together with the baffle rotated and try dropping the coax in with the compression driver on the back. Another issue s the possibility of the port running into the top of the enclosure since it is angled upwards. Anyway I really doubt the 6" difference in position of the coax will be noticeable.