3" might be too thick for the sides if that is flat but would work for the back of the enclosure, though if it is the wedge or egg crate shape it should be fine.
Yes you can make the cabinet larger for more low end output and extension. A custom enclosure around 2-3cuft tuned to 45hz would be the ideal solution. That said you could take the stock baffle and make an enclosure around 15-20" deep and shorten the ports to about 1.5" long which will give you decent extension into the 40's. It's just that the stock ports are a little undersized for a larger enclosure volume and running full range that so they will start to chuff at moderate to high volumes with bass heavy content.
What is the prefered mounting method for the damping material (mineral wool) and the crossover? Like do you glue the damping material and screw the crossover?
Thanks Matt, that is really helpful. I'm looking for some wall mounted speakers that shall play in my kitchen / dining room that is about 430Sq ft. I'm looking for someting that could play a bit loud but not reference levels of course and I'm willing to sacrifice some dB to be able to play down to around 45Hz. Can I also make the box more shallow and with higher and wider baffle? 2cuft in size sounds like they wifey would accept
If you cut the damping material just right it should be able to wedge in there without any kind of glue to hold it in place. Otherwise you can use hot glue or spray adhesive. The crossover should be screwed onto the cabinet wall.
You could make it wider, taller and more shallow. I would mock it up with cardboard or something beforehand to better visualize it in your space, 2cuft is pretty large a box to hang on the wall. In your situation I'd also consider the Apollo or Helix kits which would give very good extension in a much smaller cabinet and should still reach the output levels you desire.
Hi Matt, for mains and a center I was looking at 2 HTM-10s (wall mounted) and the Fusion 8 Alchemy Center. This would be for a large open vaulted room. HTM-12s would be a touch too big. Noted what you said above and looked at Helix and Apollo kits. Would 3 of either these kits be a better choice for sound quality as an alternative? My primary concern is wall mounting a rear ported speaker which would happen with Helix and Apollo but not HTM-10.
I cant seem to find any specs on the Seos-77 waveguide anywhere. In the new HTM 10 center specs it says less horizontal dispersion than the HTM 12. Any thought on what kind of dispersion it has compared to the one in the HTM 12?
I'll get information posted about the new waveguides as soon as I can. I had them made up about 1.5 years ago, possibly longer, just no time to get them in a speaker design.
I'm wondering if it's possible that we'll see an 8" or even 6" version of the center channel. An 11.5" high cabinet exceeds my clearance by 1.5".
Thanks Matt! I have made some designs of a box and the wife approved an box that is about 2.6cu ft in internal volume (without bracing and drivers). Do you think that the HTMs 10 or HT 10 would work best? They will mainly be for music, they will be standing on the floor with a small stand. Or will the HTM 12 also work in this box?
Hey guys, first post here. Been searching and reading a lot on AVSforums about the HTM-12 and Volt-6(8). I'm planning on ordering 3x HTM-12 (LCR) and 2 Volt-8 (surrounds) for my upcoming theater. I will be building probably afterwards also a Full Marty 18" sub (or 2). 1. Any feedback regarding speaker selection for my room ? Total room is about 11.8m x 4.2m with a 45° sloped ceiling starting at 1m. Less than half of the room will be for the actual theater. Rest of the space will stay open, with an open stairway going down. 2. I won't be buying the flat packs, so where can I get the drawings/dimensions for the cabinets ? I won't be making any adjustments, but just doing the standard build and place the LCR behind the AT screen, and the surrounds on a stand behind the sofa. 3. Any idea on the cost for shipping this al to Belgium, and on the shipping time ? 4. Any other suggestions/tips for me ? I will read some more build threads (have read already several), so most of it is currently clear to me. Thanks a lot ! Cheers, Joris
Being used mainly for music I would go for the HT-10 instead of the HTM-10, I designed the HT series of speakers to be suited more towards mixed use then the HTM's, the HT's have a slightly more elevated bass response which will work better for music especially when using a larger enclosure to extend the bass response. The HTM-12 or HT-12 would work in a 2.6cuft enclosure but both designs give more limited bass extension then the 10" designs in that enclosure, basically trading bass extension for extra sensitivity.
I posted this on facebook DIY group https://www.facebook.com/groups/1160325204019275/permalink/2646604128724701/ "why are those lightweight 12” woofers , HTM-12’s, not painted black on the visible edge?? I got up 4:30am to cut to length my wires from xover to drivers, and just noticed that.... my 2 R/L will be outside my AT screen" Quite a few people chimed in, bottom line is I will use a black sharpie to paint my (3) 12" woofer driver edges black. However ..... for future customers / orders would be nice if you could spec to eminence to have them black ...
2 Q's: 1) I ordered 3 HTM-12's, two were labeled R/L, 1 as Center, .... that's just for internal paperwork right? Or is the x-over / CD different?? 2) I've been waiting for the HTM-6's to come back in stock, or the HT-6's to be shown and available to order, any ETA for that?
Erich tests the compression drivers before packing them and makes sure the best two matched of them get marked for the left/right, no other difference beyond that. Even if you mixed them up you would probably never notice. I can't say when the HT-6 will be available, I know Celestion sent Erich the wrong woofers which is why it has been delayed.
Even better method requires a very small paint brush (as small as you can find, think watercolor brush), a Dixie cup or similar and a can of flat black spray paint. Shake the can up (per instructions), spray into cup until you have about a tablespoon of paint, dip brush in paint and apply to driver mounting flange. Dispense additional paint as needed.
I was browsing the htm 12 page and thinking about future setups.. and I had a thought.. would the Wharfedale Linton speaker stands not be a really nice looking premade speaker stand for the HTM range of speakers?
I just noticed everything is gone on the website? Are these coming back now??? Looks like I waited too long...
Erich said in a post somewhere that this was going to happen during the holidays. He is basically doing inventory control/management and stuff should start reappearing on the site in the near future. I would bet he has some in stock atm. Maybe shoot him an email?
Hi Guys, can someone please advise me what gasket tape is recommended for the 15" waveguide for the HTM12's I mean thickness and width please? Thank you. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-S...=1434087856280f45d4e7fdf1414c82969b8a68c92bf6
Thinking of getting HT8 or 10 for 2.1 setup. Is it possible to build box just for woofer and leave seos open
You could build a box just containing the woofer with the waveguide free mounted on top but it needs to be taller or deeper then the stock flat pack size in order to maintain the correct volume. Say for the HT-8 12.5" wide x 14" high x 9-10" deep. In fact if you are building a custom box you can even increase a volume a little bit in order to get better bass response. Say 12.5" wide x 16" high x 12.5" deep. It would require a slot port to get the correct tuning (11" wide x 1" high x 3.5" deep). That would give it a little extra bass kick and an extra 10hz of extension.