Thanks for the reply, Matt. It makes sense that shifting the driver 1-2" wouldn't make much, if any, difference. I plan to at least do a round over or use an MDF radius corner from White River though. Can't hurt! (and it might look nice
@Matt Grant any concerns about using 1/2 MDF instead of 3/4 for the enclosure? That adjustment increases my internal box size (before ports/driver subtracted) to 4.7 cf from 4.3. I’m not looking to run these full range though they will be tuned low, just do my best to reduce the midbass bump that was seen in the smaller boxes built by @Severian in his 15 build http://www.hificircuit.com/community/threads/vortex-speaker-kits.5622/page-3#post-11260 Current box size is going to be around 23.75 wide x 17 height x 23.75 depth (23.5 so I can get split each sheet of MDF in half ). I’m planning on doing 2 rounded over slot ports top and bottom to add rigidity. Will be putting a grill over these too so the slot ports will likely be 1.5” from the sides and bottom, with a single brace down the middle. Haven’t calculated length or anything yet. Center will be on its side so 17 width x 23.75 height x 23.75 deep.
I have a feeling most of that bump he saw was room/placement. That said the difference between 4.3 to 4.7 won't be huge but you would want to add more bracing to the 1/2" cabinet to keep the walls from resonating and that might eat up some of that internal volume gain plus be more work but otherwise you can get away with the 1/2".
Just got my three vortex -15’s but there is no crossover instructions. Can Matt or Eric please post them or PM them to me? Thank you!!
Thanks for posting the crossover parts list. I have a few crossover questions. Will you post or send the crossover schematic with the drivers? I'd like to understand the crossover (and since I don't plan to use it, disable the baffle step correction by not stuffing those parts). Second, is the crossover frequency 1400 Hz as listed on the Vortex page?
Are there further crossover instructions? Specifically the MF PAD and HF PAD. I assume I would jumper the MF PAD to reduce baffle step compensation for near wall placement. Is this correct? What about HF PAD? Should it not be jumpered typically? What does it do if jumpered?
Assembly: Glue components to the correct positions on the board (hot melt glue works great). Secure inductors with non metallic cable ties. Solder components leads to the solder pads on the bottom of the board. Attach wires from input and drivers and mount crossover board. Note: The crossover components are non directional or non polarized so they can be installed in either direction but the inductors will often only fit one way due to the position of their leads. Take care when soldering the inductor leads, only the ends are tinned and can be soldered the rest of the wire is enamel coated (usually red or gold colored) and the solder won’t make a proper connection if you try soldering to that. If you wish to shorten the leads you must scrape away the enamel coating to expose the copper underneath. The IN terminal connects to the input from the amplifier, LF connects to the woofer, HF connects to the compression driver. HF Pad is for the optional padding of the high frequencies if you want them more laid back. Connect a small jumper wire between the two points on that terminal block to enable. A switch can also be connected to the terminal block to remotely toggle it on and off. MF Pad is for the optional padding of the midrange frequencies. This works opposite of the HF pad, using no jumper enables the MF padding, while using a jumper disables the MF pad. Note the normal operation for flattest response is no jumpers on either (L3 not bypassed, R4 unused). If you want to remove L3 to remove some of the BSC you can also experiment with changing R3 to a slightly higher value (~6Ohm) to raise the HF level to match.
Had to make a bunch of substitutions due to backorder status. But I think what I ordered will work. REALLY excited. I got my shipping confirmation! Edit. While much more expensive. I assume this will work as a substitute? https://www.parts-express.com/ERSE-Super-Q-2.0mH-16-AWG-500W-Inductor-266-904?quantity=3
Thanks for posting the schematic and guide. I have some studying to do, but it's starting to make sense.
Will the Volt 12 also not exist? I only see the Volt 6 - Volt 10 on the site. The Volt 12 and 15 both have the matching Celestion CDX1-1731 tweeter to the Titan 818LX. Dolby recommends matching timber for Atmos.
Are we talking about the Volt or the Vortex? There is a Volt 12 but Matt is doing it kind of as a side project. No Volt 15 though that I am aware of.
Thanks for the catch, but I did mean the Volt 12. I realize now the Vortex 15 requires a much larger enclosure. In general looking for a coaxial speaker that can serve surround or Atmos duty. I have so man ideas in my head. I mainly want to timbre match if not match every speaker. After seeing pictures of the Titans I would like to do 3 LCR and find something to match for surrounds. I originally thought of going with 11 HTM-12's.
I think you meant the Vortex-12, that is the smaller version of the Vortex-15 and uses the Celestion CDX1-1731. The Volt-12 I did uses the Eminence Beta-12CX and the F110M-8. The Volt-12 was never a kit, just DIY plans that I posted. The Vortex-12 may return as a kit in the future possibly in a different form factor.
I guess I'm looking for specs of a combination of both. lol I was looking for a speaker that I can mount to the ceiling with the Celestion CDX1-1731 to match the Titan 818LX. That Vortex would be too large from the pictures I've seen. I'm new to the site, sorry for the confusion.
Hello Erich, I know you are busy packing the Vortex orders and I'll try not to take too much of your time - would you happen to have an estimate on when the Vortex will be coming back on sale? Not that I don't mind being on the site everyday checking if the Vortex is back on stock. However, it would give the rest of us (who missed the sale) a time frame to look forward to and to ease up on the website traffic - all kidding aside, I wouldn't mind doing a prepay on the vortex even if I have to wait months as long as I know they are coming. I appreciate it sir.
Erich replied to me about the next vortex sale. He is waiting for another order of compression drivers. He does not have an exact date but he estimates around 1.5 months. With that said, I'm wondering if he can sell the woofer by itself and give us CD alternatives at parts express until the real ones arrive. Yes, it may be a waste of money but it beats waiting for 1.5 months - just saying.
I’m interested in both the 12 and the 15 (as well as the Helix)….Can’t wait for the supply issues to clear, here as well as elsewhere!
I have zero experience with crossover design, but I'm interested in learning more. I was confused by some of the crossover component values and by not seeing a prototypical baffle step correction circuit, but with some reading I see what you've done with the larger inductor. Matt, would you be willing to post (or PM to me) the frd and zma files for the drivers so I can try out Passive Crossover Designer or similar software?
Got my MDF and going to to a test run. . THe MDF is 49" wide and wanted to make this easy for me. Height 49" Width 18" Depth 19.5" Any comments as to whether this will run into issues?
Per post #28, Matt designed the crossover in a cab 17” wide. It might not make much difference but I’d go 17” wide to avoid baffle step issues. It also has the advantage of being less close to your depth. You don’t want two dimensions the same. Any reason why you aren’t using Matt’s dimensions? Yours is gonna be bigger than his. Have you modeled it to get the tuning right?
Does anyone know of another place to order crossover parts besides Parts Express they are showing out of stock of the Dayton Audio 3.5mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil Dayton Audio DMPC-4.0 4.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor If anyone knows a alternative for these parts it would be appreciated, if not i will just place the order and get the parts whenever they are available