okay awesome thanks. I just noticed if I model the 8" driver in WinISD using a sealed cabinet I'm getting about an f3 of about 155Hz with a .233 cu ft box. does that sound right?
Hi, @Matt Grant I recently purchased four Volt-8's to use as surrounds & will be building thin cabinets for them. I was hoping you could verify my measurements would work. Exterior measurements of the cabinets would be: 15" wide x 20" tall x 7.5" deep. I was planning on using 3/4" MDF for the cabinet. That appears to give me a cabinet volume of .95 cubic ft if i'm using this Speaker Volume Calculator correctly. I'm guessing I need driver displacement to be more accurate. The Volt-8 surrounds will be paired with 1099's for L/C/R along with (at least) two subs, so bass should be handled. (I don't think I'm allowed to link to the DIYAudioAndVideo . com SpeakerBoxVolume calculator) Edit: forgot to mention i was planning on using 3/4" MDF
That cabinet size and volume should work assuming you are porting it somewhere between 60-70hz? I wouldn't worry about subtracting the exact displacement taken up by the driver itself, I always just roughly estimate it as you don't need to be super precise with the internal volume.
i'll be using the 2" diameter ports that came with it. i think they're supposed to be cut down to 4". Thanks for the reply!
Almost done with my Volt-10's. Built a small sealed slanted enclosure. They will be hanging on a wall in my shop, about 10 to 12 feet off the floor. I will have sub woofers to fill in the low end, I am not expecting much bass from these. Probably overkill for a shop speaker, but I did see someone that built a pair of Vortex-15's for the same use, THAT is overkill! Sanded them to 120 then used two-part wood filler to help with the seems between the pieces and to fill in the holes from the brad nailer. First enclosure I built without using a single clamp. Will hit them with 220 then 320 this weekend then paint them with black satin paint from Home Depot. Nothing fancy, they will be dusty in no time! Subs will take awhile, need to go get more MDF. But I have to finish my Vortex-15's first, they are close to completion also. Last piece of veneer arrived today, will get the fronts done this weekend. Plan on building two enclosures for the subs, each will have two JBL 12" woofers in them. I purchased 16 of them during Best Buys Black Friday sale. About time to use them in something.
Finally finished the Volt10's. Will hang them on the wall tomorrow. They came out pretty good. Two coats of satin paint then a light sanding, bugs always seem to find their way to wet paint, then two coats of semi gloss. Somehow no bugs this time! Put the speaker cups on the top, might be able to hide the wires easier in that direction. Didn't want to put them in the side just in case I decide to go from sealed to ported. Don't see why I would ever do that though. That speaker covered on the left side is a Vortex-15 that should be finished soon........
Finally hung the Volt-10's today. They sound fantastic Erich and Matt, thanks for this design! I will be putting some subwoofers on top of the center three cabinets, will start on those enclosures soon. Really can't believe how good these sound up there, very impressed!
Hi Matt, I bought two of the atmos sealed flat packs with only the 3/4" baffle from diysoundgroup. I coudn't find the cut sheet for the box at the site now. What is the cut sheet for the box? I'll be using 3/4" plywood. The boxes will be hanging from the ceiling. Thanks.
Assuming Volt-8 and if using 3/4" material: Back - 10.5" x 10.5" Sides A - 10.5" x 6" Sides B - 9" x 6"
Thanks for the reply Matt. I should've been more clear on my first post. It's a Volt-6 with the sealed 8.5" baffle. I want to keep the precut baffle. So I need the dimensions of Top and Bottom, Left and Right. Thank you!
@Matt Grant, I just assembled two volt 6 v2 crossovers and when I did the speaker sound test, the sound level of one crossovers is very low. Which component should I check. Much appreciated.
All of those solder joints should be reheated to let the solder flow better on the round silver pads. Also be sure that you're soldering to the tinned silver tips of the inductor leads, not the copper colored section of the wire. If you pushed the inductor leads in too far and solder to the copper coated part then they won't work correctly.
Yeah definitely some cold looking solder joints on that board. I did create a guide with photos to help when assembling the crossovers which has tips for soldering: http://www.hificircuit.com/communit...r-speaker-crossovers-with-included-pcbs.4964/
Yep, the issue is the inductor wire. I thought I scratched off the paint when i cut the wire off. But it runed out I didn't do a good job so just scratch off the tip of the wire and soldering again and now its working fine. Thanks!
You need HEAT! You may not have a soldering iron that can provide enough heat, or too small of a tip to apply the heat. All those joints are bad. They may work now, but give them time and they won't. Try to use normal leaded solder, the lead-free stuff is very difficult to work with and needs even more heat to apply.
I have Volt 8s for atmos duty. I am building some sealed enclosures for them. Should I try and angle these towards the MLP? or can they just be mounted flush with the ceiling?
I would say angle them, but I have not started my Atmos project yet, I still need to look at the specs.
Angle it is. I got the HT-8s for surrounds and 1099s for LCR. The 1099s sound incredible. My first full DIY system, looking forward to getting things set up and doing treatments for the first time ever.
@Matt Grant, i changed my design for the Volt-8 surrounds i am building to encapsulate them into a 56" tall column that will be mounted to the side walls in my room. The interior volume is ~.92cu ft (13"x21"x8"). I was originally planning on having the ports be down firing into the column instead of firing out the face of the front baffle but then thought that may negatively affect the sound. The speaker is completely enclosed in its own box but the column below the speaker will be partially open on the sides. Below is a photo of the cabinet (upside-down) as well as a rendering of what the column will look like once complete. The sides of the columns will be perforated as shown. Will this setup negatively impact the audio? Would i be better off shrinking my cabinet down & making it a sealed cabinet? Or, should i make the ports front firing? Thanks! Volt-8 Speaker Cabinet - (13"x21"x8") Speaker column - The perforations in the column below actual speaker cabinet vary in length between 0.5" & 1.5". All of them are 0.5" tall.
If there is open area on the columns like you have illustrated that should be plenty of area for the air/sound from the ports to escape without being detrimental to the sound.
well, they're not done but they are (temporarily) installed. i figured i'd post some pics. i still need to skin the sides which will be 1" pink polystyrene covered in 1/8" baltic birch with the pattern above lasered out on them. the tops will be dimmable light boxes/sound absorption/scattering panels. the bottoms, below the Volt-8, will also be sound absorption/scattering panels but won't have lights in them. the bottoms will be stuffed with rockwool. i still have to make matching front columns but they won't get speakers in them. i'm going to do the tops of the front columns a bit differently & if i like them better, i'll redo the tops of the rear columns to match. you can see a couple Volt-6's sitting at the base of the column. those were my surrounds while assembling the column surrounds. those will move to Atmos duty. you can also see the LCR 1099s embedded in the front wall. i'm hoping to replace that tv with an acoustically transparent screen & get a projector later this year.
Another DIYSG man! I have Vortex-15's as my Main L&R, 1099's for center and surrounds. I will eventually hook up my HTM-12's for rear surrounds. I have four Volt-8's for Atmos if I ever do it. I listen to 100% music right now. Two GSG Devestator subs with 21" LaVoce drivers in the corners behind me. All stuffed in an 11x15 room with one chair in there for ME!
Hi guys, I am trying to get a handle on my upgraded Atmos layout. I have four Volt 10V2 speaker kits that I would like to use, but I need six. Since this model is no longer available through DIYSG I was looking to cobble together an additional two kits from base components. The main issue I have is that the V2 uses a 'custom' Celestion CDX1 1446 compression driver. I am assuming it has a different diaphragm (Denovo JB11S) but I also note the label on the units I have list it as 12 ohms, whereas the stock unit is 8 ohms. Will the stock unit work with the standard crossover and will they sound fundamentally the same as the existing four V2's. Options currently on the table are: 1. Build an additional two Volt 10's using stock 1446's and hope they sound the same. 2. Build an additional two Volt 10s and replace all the compression drivers (6) with stock 1446's (to achieve consistency). 3. Drop the Volt 10 and instead build 6 x Volt 12's (tempting but raises issues of clearance due to greater depth of the driver). Base layer will be 6 x VBS10.2 for surrounds and 3 x 1299's for the LCR all crossed at 80hz supported by 2 x Devastator V4's. Anyone familiar with the Volt designs able to give me a steer?