Plunge cut circular saw with guide rail.

I have used one, but don't own one right now. Excellent tool for getting nice straight cuts on larger pieces. Easily the best option out there for that type of work.
However I still think the table saw is best for most smaller pieces (<24") as you can't beat it when you need consistency between cuts.

 

I have a Festool rail saw. It allows you to make cuts that would be either dangerous or nearly impossible with a table saw. With a jig and precise measurements, they can be consistent.

http://face.cleanandquiet.com/store/Inquisition.jpg

 

I use Eureka Zone products. Mike Piechowski turned me onto them (Even ordered them as I had no clue what I needed). I cannot say enough about them.

With a simple light weight knock down cutting table made with 2x2’s and a pair of 2x4’s, (3' wide 6' long) set on saw horses – you can rip to inside of 1/32’nd of an inch or better as far as your wood is long. SUPER repeatable. Safer even.
When I got mine – skimmed a 1/16” edge off a piece of plywood 8’ long, with 1/64’th accuracy end through end. Tied it in bows… Actually – I straightened the factory edge then ripped that.
Another bonus? The edges it cuts with a simple 40 tooth saw blade are cabinetry grade edges... IOW no finishing necessary prior to real cabinetry work/glue.




I currently have the 108 tracksaw system from this page:

http://www.eurekazone.com/product-catalog/ez-track-saw-packages

but I split the two equal lengths into one 3 footer, and the other a 6. I also have their rip sizer seen here

http://www.eurekazone.com/content/ez-ripsizer-25

That thing is amazing. I ripped every panely for the last Tapped Horn sub I built in less than a half an hour with it.

I've also got a cross cutting jig I have yet to assemble.

I will NEVER use a table saw again after using these products, and recomend Eurekazone over about every other track system out there. I was talking to a friend not long ago about needing to pick some up for his construction projects. Here's Mikes response to him.

"
Tracksaws are the ONLY way to work with stock that is larger than I can move easily. I have a PHENOMENAL table saw (Delta Unisaw) that barely gets used any more - the tracksaw does it all, and does it all better... Consider - a tracksaw can do a straight-line rip accurate to a 64th" on an 8' panel in 10', the table saw will take closer to 20'. Move the saw, not the wood. Both hands on saw = no fingers in the blade either, which is a bonus.
"
He's not kidding about that 1/64'th accuracy.

HIGHLY recomend good track saws to Anybody cutting large panels, especially if they don't have a 16' table for their table saw. Eurekazone's are exceptional.. (No I'm not an employee - just a fan.. )

 

db--

What circular saw do you use with it? My circular is a real pos.

Also, is it practical to cut compound angles on small panels (such as cut a 50deg bevel at some odd angle across a board that is maybe 4" wide and 15" long... a wall section for a horn?). I'd like to do something easier than sled and table saw for those.

 

I'm using an inexpensive Hitachi C7SB2 I picked up at Lowes on sale.

http://tinyurl.com/bksj99t

Runout is less than .01 (better than I can measure) on its bearing. Think it was 89 dollars. On sale now for less. Mike P uses a 10" variation one or two model steps up in the same line I think.

Yes it is absolutely feasible to cut short compound miters. It's stupid easy with a miter square. Still simple enough with their included clamps.

 

Mike posts more of his thoughts on these here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1443720/the-circular-saw-discussion#post_22673023
He's pretty clear as to their benefits. I'm also probably about to convert a friend this weekend. Ripping out another HouseWrecker tapped horn Sunday.. If I had to guess, when Eurekazone puts stuff on sale this holliday for their move - he'll be ordering.

 

should anyone get notice when that sale is happening. please let us all know by a post here!

 

Will do.


Eurekazone is in the midst of relocating, so things are sort of up in the air.


I expect a sale near the first of the year, once they get the new location fully set up and production back online.
There were few Black Friday deals on Amazon, but nothing currently.


Any tracksaw is a great tool for handling sheet stock. They all beat a table saw. I've experienced kickbacks, and I've put a finger into a tablesaw blade. Tablesaws don't forgive, and I won't forget. I have been looking for a better way since.


I chose Eurekazone because I could adapt so many of my other tools to it, and use the tools in many different ways. In addition to lots of sheets of plywood and a lot of hardwood and dimensional lumber, I've cut inch-thick aluminum plate, lots of aluminum sheet, lots of extrusions and channel, plastic sheets for a number of different projects... dB has cut ceramic bricks for his grille...


All it takes is the proper blade and the vision to see that you can apply the tool to the job.


I've developed a way to set my fence angles accurately enough for cutting unity flares. I am still working on getting the saw angle set as accurately, as well as a base that is better suited to bevel cuts.

 

I still need to get one....


JSS

 

Ask and ye shall receive....


Use coupon code "2013" for 20% off (everything but powertools), and $13 flat rate shipping in the lower 48.


When I bought - the UEG or Ripsizer did not exist, so I bought rails and connected them and clamped tehm in place for making long cuts.
I've since upgraded to a bridge on a dedicated table, as well as my own versions of the square and the ripsizer.


If I were shopping today?


UEG or Ripsizer (the UEG is not on the site - but I am pretty sure that it is available, you just have to call to order it)
72" Tracksaw system (comes with base, rail and clamps)
36" rail and square

 

I picked up two of the 54" track kits from Eurekazone while they were on sale. I just assembled them last week and will be trying them out next week! All of the parts were top notch.

Next I need to build a real work table.

 

Simple enough to clamp a straightedge to the ply, offsetting for the fence measurement, and plunging the saw with its depot adjustment loosens up just enough to keep it steady.
Works for any cuts I've done. Square or not.any length.