Wow, Erich's out of dna-350s and theres less than 10 buyout woofers left at parts express despite the fact that there were a couple hundred just a few weeks ago. this design sure did get really popular really quickly.
daaaaaaaaaaaaang, Glad I ordered mine last monday when I did. tested all 3 drivers out by and they're working fine. phew. now just to build these suckers looks like they're down to 7 right now. almost tempted to grab a couple extra as backups in case of a blown driver down the road
thats exactly what i did yesterday - picked up one more, to go with the three i already have. figured that way i have an extra in case anything happens to one, and/or i can turn my l/c/r into two pairs if i ever need to repurpose or get rid of them. 1 left!!!!!!!
Wow, they were sitting there collecting dust until this design came out. I guess I gotta change my template recommendation email thingy ;D Lately when someone posts, "please recommend a SEOS design" I say "Cheap Thrill is the best bang for the buck right now hands down". Well now I actually have to think about the answer
It might take it a notch down on the bang per buck (bpb) competition, but I think the Celestion TF1525 will work in there, too. Not as much Xmax, though. Oh, and almost twice the $. Still, compared other 100buck drivers, it doesn't look too bad.
would it be a drop in replacement with the same xover or would that have to be re-worked? (just curious in case for some whacked reason I blow a driver or something down the road
I've created a Sketchup drawing of a 2.5 ft^3 enclosure modeled after the 2.0 ft^3 offered on the site. I haven't built a box using this drawing, so I can't promise the driver clearance will work. If anyone wants to build a box with these plans, they are available at AVS Forums (the file exceeds this forum's size limits). If anyone uses these plans and encounters a problem, I'll update the drawing, and offer my condolences... Hopefully Erich will have a flatpack out soon and these plans won't be needed.
I've finally finished 2 of these for my LCR (still 1 more to go) and all I can say is holy crap these are great! I did some quick listening of them on a crappy boombox stereo (the kind that has removable speakers and speaker terminals on it) and I'm amazed at the performance. A big thanks to Bill and Erich for making these happen! It will be very difficult to buy a retail set of speakers ever again. I've currently got a 7.1 set of Niles PHD42 and I'm in the process of trying to sell them to pay for surrounds kits....I'm leaning towards the MTG EOS-8 or the Fusion8's....does anyone know if there is a plan to add the updated EOS-8 Karma surrounds as a kit? I'd rather not butcher up my own baffles and will definitely go the flat pack route for the surrounds (my non-existent carpentry skills made constructing speaker cabs take a looong time). I'll take some better pictures of my finished Cheap thrills....used Duratex and I think they turned out great.
I'm about to start the crossovers for the Cheap thrills in a day or so. what's the best adhesive or way to "tie down" the resistors, inductors etc to the board? will hot glue work??? if the pieces get too hot I could see that melting the glue. what about zip ties? or silicone?
Hey Wormraper, most people use hot glue I think. That's what I used and it works well, and is easier than drilling the crossover board for zipties.
At a minimum, I would suggest you use zip ties for the inductors and larger capacitors. You don't want these items to come loose and potentially cause damage or short against another component. Ideally, I would recommend drilling your board and making all the connections underneath. I think it makes for a neater board and the solder connections will serve as a positive retention for everything except the inductors, which will need zip ties or screws. Here is a link to my crossover layout before I hot glued everything to prevent any buzzing inside the enclosure.
Hi, does anyone know when the DNA-350's will be back in stock? Looks like the "Cheap Thrill" sort of cleaned them out. thanks, nikkoluvr
Eric mentioned last time I talked to him that he probably WASN't going to restock them. go with the 360 instead
here's my first attempt at a crossover. can you guys look over it to make sure I didn't f anything up before testing and soldering? (I made it a HUGE pic so that you can zoom in over every part)
sweet, thanks mtg90... I assume there's no reverse polarity on the DNA 350 or anything whacky like that? just plug + to + and - to - on the woofer and tweeter?
quick question. with my room placement I CAN NOT put these with the wave guides at ear level. (my roof is too narrow). they HAVE to go on top of my THT subs ... so about 3 feet up in the air is where the bottom will be. is that gonna be a bit too high ??? or should I flip them upside down so the waveguide is at the 3 foot point instead of the woofer
Flipping them upside down is fine, IMO, but whatever you do, keep in mind that the designed lobe or whatever it's properly called for this speaker is not directly pointing out from the baffle, but up some. Check the first couple posts of this thread, but iirc the measured response sweet spot was out 30" and up 6", so ideally they should be tipped down below the listener if right-side-up.
ahhh, so tipping them upside down would help since my head is JUST under where the waveguide would be upside down. so they'd be shooting down slightly
Fred is right about the lobe, I recall the same thing. Why not just tip them downward more to aim them at the listener rather than placing them upside down?
well, thanks for the help guys, I got my braces all installed. install the crossovers tomorrow afternoon and then stuffing the cabinet. I know I asked this before and Eric said to try one pillow per cabinet... unfortunately walmart was out of their super cheap pillows and I had to get a 4 lb bag of fiberfill from the sewing section. is 4 lbs enough for the cab or hsould I get more...maybe less??? I forgot to weight one of the regular pillows at walmart to get an estimation of how much to stuff in the cab.
ok, weird issue. my crossovers are fine. I got them working a week ago. my partner is just finishing HIS crossovers and two of them work fine. the the third is not... well at least the woofer isn't (don't worry its not the woofer, it's the same woofer that works on all the other crossover boards). they are wired exactly like the picture above. spent two hours making sure every wire was identical. the weird thing is that if he pulls the 3 resistors that ground to the speaker cable in the picture from touching the cable... the woofer starts working, but if he has those 3 resistors attached the woofer doesn't work.. any ideas?