Step 1: Inventory Check to see everything is included with your kit. I purchased the angled flat pack also which came shipped with the kit. Also double check to see that all parts arrive unharmed. Step 2: Assemble flat pack additional items needed: wood glue, clamps, paper towels Test fit the flat pack to see where all pieces fit. For this flat pack, it couldn't be more simple. Back of the enclosure, bottom, top, and two sides. I used Elmer's Carpenter's wood glue to assemble to MDF flat pack and 6 clamps per flat pack. Start by running a bead of glue along the groove on the bottom of the flat pack and placing the top and bottom pieces into place. Run a bead of glue along the side pieces where they meet up with the top and bottom and push them into place. Confirm that all corners align well, and attach 6 clamps as shown in photo. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zSKKhMrjxDI07iYriirlUEZ_XgDIVue3rhNt1mcT7RU/edit?usp=sharing Once all 6 clamps are in place, wipe up any excess glue that has squeezed out on the outside of the flat pack with a damp paper towel and set aside for 1-2 hours to allow glue to dry. Glued enclosure: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1eNktwar2JcIGjDvYw2SRN6Rgxs9jTaM0rnCQxBEo5hQ/edit?usp=sharing Step 3: Assemble crossover additional items needed: Soldering iron, solder, hot glue gun, hot glue sticks, nylon cable tie for iron core inductor, 16 gauge wire for input, tweeter, and woofer connections. Fit components onto printed circuit board. Attach components using hot glue. Use nylon cable tie for additional support of the iron core inductor. Solder components on bottom side of printed circuit board. Cut 1 foot lengths of 16 gauge wire for input, tweeter and woofer, Solder wires to printed circuit board. Solder two additional components to top of board as shown: Air core inductor gets glued to top of resistors and attached to leads on resistor nearest outer edge of PCB. Small dayton capacitor attaches to leads of iron core inductor. Crossover photo: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mvekswTuhPAYvIa4ychBRkMK6SgP17Dx0vlwcP_cEmA/edit?usp=sharing Step 4: Test crossover Test the crossover to confirm it is wired correctly and that speaker components are working correctly. Now is also a good time to attach the tweeter to the woofer. Peel off clear tap protecting the back of the woofer. Screw tweeter into the back of the woofer hand tight. Be careful not to over-tighten this fitting as the threads on the tweeter are plastic. Once the tweeter bottoms out, just turn it an additional 1/16th turn. There will be some threads visible on the tweeter as shown here: Picture tweeter attached to woofer: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1lCYL5AEI_w2rHppwb4Pw49uFXaryoll2zGZ4_Tuv6rs/edit?usp=sharing Temporarily attach HI leads from crossover to tweeter and LO leads to woofer. INP leads attach to amplifier. (Suggest using a low power amplifier for testing, just in case. I used a T-amp.) Play some music and confirm that both tweeter and woofer are playing. Do not be too critical of the sound at this point, because the enclosure is required for proper sound quality. Just confirm that both drivers are playing. Step 5: Mount crossover in enclosure and install damping material additional items needed: damping material, 1/4” standoffs, #6 x 3/4” deep pan screws Mount the crossover in the rear of the enclosure near the top. I used #6 x 3/4” deep thread screws with some 1/4” spacers between pcb and the enclosure. Install damping material inside box. I used some leftover damping material from an older project. I'm a fan of the Sonic-Barrier foam sold by Parts-Express. I would suggest the 1/2” thick material for this project. Photo of enclosure with crossover and damping material installed: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mehsIgFYQTF3V2VV-jD0WxbDAVN4TnNTWLuolTx3fz0/edit?usp=sharing Step 6: Glue baffle to enclosure. Prime and paint enclosure. Additional items needed: paint, primer, foam brushes Two coats of primer followed by two coats of semi-gloss black paint. I suggest using water based primer and paint for easy clean up. Photo of enclosure with primer: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1lXQLQCj4Y3SjMVyQmi2BYAJg-0a2sBI1Cp1N1r68Lu4/edit?usp=sharing Photo of enclosure with semi-gloss black paint: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1xb4cjmKymB462Ry5cxM9TG5YxNobjukWcGns_cB7En0/edit?usp=sharing Step 7: Final assembly. Additional items needed: Drill and drill bit for terminals. Female 1/4” spade connectors. Crimp tool. Plastic mallet. Drill hole and attach speaker terminal to box. Attach female spade connectors to wires. I crimped them on, then soldered the connector to the wire. Connect speaker terminal to crossover. Connect tweeter and woofer to crossover. Attach driver to front baffle using supplied #8 x ¾” screws and gently tap port into front baffle using plastic mallet. Connect speaker to amplifier and enjoy your hard work! Photo of completed speaker: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1v29ydHXiNpTKFrGkL5zoeVu4Cbs02rkaOr16qnMhOEo/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Uog15IandyOERS3F44e4NyISu5nnhoEk4Pv_x4AB3YI/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/document/d/1L-fFFCRhmpPmFUueVvwyQIG72MlKinZWvxGzPlh6WMU/edit?usp=sharing
Those turned out Great! Thank you for posting your build thread. I'm sure plenty of new builders appreciate your effort! Mike
nice write up. I also built a pair of these and could not be happier. I originally built 5 fusion 8's but the surrounds were a little to big for my room. I ordered these and again unbelievable sound. I could not think of a better surround for my situation. moved the two fusion 8's upstairs to replace older paradigm references. the wife now wants all diy sound now because she heard an immediate difference. :-\ lol.