SEOS12 with Eminence 12 Pro Woofers

Side and front removed view.

 

Looks good craig.


I use this stuff for my damping material and really like it: http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/rolls-batts/r19-15-x-93-ultratouch-denim-insulation/p-1689681.htm
But when you don't need five 15"x93" batts home depot has it in smaller rolls http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202709974

 

Got the xovers done last night I'll link a good pic of one
Edit 12/8/12 there was a problem below on this xover pic see the final pic for the fixed section. Thanks Tux and MTG90 for catching this.

 

Thanks MTG, I looked around HD and Los and couldn't find the denim stuff. Looks like we have to use the itchy stuff in the deep south.

 

If you have Menards down there, they should have it. Good stuff, but it does make your hands slippery after working with it.

 

Thanks for the suggestions....but -Closest Menards

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Craig,


I just used regular old pink stuff for my stuffing: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1417294/seos12-2512-build/240#post_22341822


Despite my worries, it wasn't as bad (itchy) as I thought. Just make sure you use gloves.


Also, for what it's worth, here's Wayne P's reply to his opinion of pinks stuff over options: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1434179/speaker-build-with-4pi-guts#post_22507273


Java

 

Thanks Java,I too will be going with the pink stuff.
On another note I've been rethinking the window bracing now I'm just considering 1" Oak dowel across the front/rear and left/right panels instead.

 

I did the dowel thing for my 1st box and window bracing for 2-3. Window bracing is easier and more stable. Maybe it's just me, but I could never get the dowel lengths just right. The window is basically another top/bottom panel with windows cut out with a jigsaw: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1417294/seos12-2512-build/180#post_22300477

 

Hmm, I thought the dowel way would be easier than doing all that jigsaw cutting , but thanks for your insight.I won't start building the boxes until next weekend so I'll prolly change my mind 6 times before then.

 

Your mileage may vary. I ended up cutting the dowels by hand, which was probably part of my problem. But I guess my biggest learning was that window bracing was very easy to build and offer a lot more contact area for more bracing. A side benefit was that the window bracing offered a nice shelf for the insulation below the waveguide.

You’ll be fine either way.

 

I got started on them this weekend , and window bracing it is! I also plan to add a brace down the back/center between the two windows and tie the side walls to the vertical brace...Overkill,yeah probably

 

Made some more progress this weekend , hoping to get a coat of Duratex on them later today.

 

Looking really good, Craig!!

 

nice.

is that sealed?

 

Yep , was a real pain to put the front section of Silicone on , especially with the insulation already in. I had to move it out of the way and feel around in there,I know I over did the silicone in places just to make sure I got it all. Also that waveguide is so tight I have to put it in the freezer for about 20 minutes to make it fit

 

Thanks Java.
Got the Duratex done today. This was the first time I've ever used Duratex and it was a joy to work with. It goes on fast and dries quickly,I was easily able to get 2 coats on in about an hour.I highly recommend it to anyone that's looking for a satin finish and doesn't mind some texture. I used a smooth cigar type foam roller to get a slight texture. Sorry it got dark, I couldn't get a decent picture.I'll post some more tomorrow.

 

cool...looking forward to some pics.

did you prime?

does a gal cover 3 speakers?

 

No I didn't prime, Duratex adheres to bare wood without priming , I did read it won't stick to bondo or wood fillers, it worked great with the vinyl spackle. Yes , the gallon would probably cover 6-8 speakers with 2 coats, I put 2 coats on the pair and I still have 75% of the gallon can left. Here's some links for the coating, the video is helpful if you haven't seen it yet.
https://store.acrytech.com/files/Applying-DuraTex.pdf

► 11:42​

► 11:42​

www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuav56tGIE4

 

Here they are,I'm real happy with how they turned out although the wifey is demanding a grill . I've thrown all types of music at them today and everything sounds better than I ever heard before. I'm blown away with the sound stage that these create and how effortless they perform. Thanks to all who helped out along the way.
Oh yeah, before anybody ask, those things in the center are an unused mistake from the past. Maybe next time we do some painting I'll get them out of the wall and patch it.

 

How are the fumes?

 

I used the roll on grade and I was outdoors so fumes wasn't a problem at all.I couldn't say if the spray grade is the same. I was able to bring them inside about an hour after the final coat and they still had a faint odor from the coating but not bad at all.

 

Perfect, thanks!

 

Duratex is a water based coating so the fumes are not bad at all. You could even coat your speakers indoors!!


Craig, make sure that you aim those speakers in at a 45 degree angle if you want any imaging out of those sweet new speakers. Once you aim them correctly you will be very impressed!

 

Thanks tsloms,Your exactly right , toed in is much better, I tried both just to see if I could get away with them being straight. I had them forward for the pics and I'll have em straight while not in use, with a walkway just to the right of one of them I'll be in trouble if I leave them toed in while idle. If you can see it ,on the bottom I'm using some cheapo furniture sliders for feet to make it easy to slide them from idle to listening position.